NORMAL SERVICE WILL BE RESUMED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE

I have a longstanding lower back complaint – degenerative disc disease – which behaves just like rheumatism; when it’s warm and dry I can live with it but the moment the weather turns cold and damp I can be virtually paralysed for days or weeks on end. It's not at that stage yet but for the moment it’s even a struggle to type this post so just as the project is nearing completion this restoration is ‘on ice’ ‘till I’m fit enough to attend to the finishing touches. 

WHERE DO THESE GO ?

Somewhere earlier in this blog I’ve mentioned that at the conclusion of every restoration I’ve ever undertaken there’s a grommet, widget or whatever left over with no apparent home. Well this Atco restoration is no exception. The photo shows two flat plates roughly 2” x 1” which I think may have something to do with the fuel tank mounting brackets but having looked very carefully at the video I took during dismantling their location is nowhere to be found. The machine hasn’t yet collapsed so they can’t be that important but any suggestions would be appreciated.

FOLLOWER TO THE RESCUE!

Fortuitously a follower of this blog had saved the photo that had disappeared from my post of 14^th September. He’s kindly emailed the picture which I’ve now saved on my computer and reinstated on the post of that date.

TRICKY TRANSFERS

I’ve received the three new transfers ordered from the OLMClub as well as a couple bought through ebay.  The tool box should have the circular Chas. H Pugh transfer on the lid (at least that what was on the machine when bought) but I preferred the large Atco name version.  This was applied without a problem as detailed instructions were sent by the ebay seller.  There was no ‘home’ for the small Atco name transfer so I decided to stick it to the rear cross member of the ride-on attachment. And what a hash I made of it ! As I was peeling off the backing paper the transfer creased and attempts to smooth it out only produced even more creases and tares so the remnants were removed and discarded.

The correct (so I’m informed) transfer for either side of the fuel tank is the gold Atco name sticker which is fine against a green background but as my tank is polished brass the gold transfer would be ‘lost’ so I ordered the green ‘tank’ transfer which I think looks more prominent.

A word of caution to anyone not used to applying transfers. (ie moi !)

To my knowledge there are at least three types of transfers, or should I say means of applying, so be certain first which you have as mistakes cannot be rectified afterwards. The two purchased via ebay  are the type where on the face side the lettering shows in reverse (ie mirror image) and these need to be wetted, applied ‘up side down’ – also to a dampened surface -  after which the backing paper which is uppermost carefully peeled off leaving the transfer on the surface which then may need to be smoothed over to remove bubbles and creases as in wallpapering. Others are simply stick-on where the backing paper is first removed to expose the sticky underside and then pressed onto the surface. Finally another type has backing paper on both sides and is applied by first removing the underside paper, applied to the surface followed by very carefully peeling off the backing paper from the face side.  

This all may sound obvious to those in the know but I wasn’t and I’m somewhat surprised fitting instructions aren’t included with some of the transfers.    

UPDATE

 I’ve found some 5/8” ID x 1/8” thick washers and added these alongside the existing spacers.  The gap between the rollers is now fractionally more than it should be but maybe I’m being too pedantic.

As with the rear roller I’ve fitted rubber sleeves around the new oak front rollers as protection but that’s necessitated removing the scraper bar whilst these sleeves are in place.  

GOT BY THE SHORT AND CURLIES

Monday  15/11. At the end of this blog at the conclusion of the restoration I will include a credits list – those supplies I have used throughout the restoration but I will not be acknowledging the (expletive) from whom I ordered the new oak turnings. He was sent a detailed spec and drawing of the rollers and handles from which he gave a written, fixed, all inclusive price and ten day turn around time. He was also sent one of the roller brass inner sleeves and an old oak handle as a pattern to work from. Now two months later he hasn’t even started the job and wants more money. Yes I could tell him to ….. (you know what) but then he won’t return the items I sent as patterns and I’ll have another wait ordering elsewhere.  I’m minded to let him proceed and when finished refuse to pay the extra but that’s dishonest and not my style.  When I quote a client I stick to it even if we only cut even.

Update, Friday 19/11.  The oak rollers and handles eventually arrived yesterday.  The handles are fine but the rollers are each 1/8” too short. I had sent the turner one of the 3 7/8” long brass inner sleeves as a pattern only so that the centre hole would be machined to take the sleeve as a push fit but, contrary to the 4” long roller length given on my drawing, he’s used the sleeve length as a pattern for the length of the rollers. These sleeves are 1/8” shorter than the roller to ensure that the spacer washers sit against the side wall of the roller and not the sleeve. 1/8” doesn’t sound much but with five rollers there’s now a 5/8” gap at the end of the roller shaft. This will have to be ‘taken up’ with thicker spacers (which won’t look right) or a 5/16” collar at each end of the shaft. More unnecessary work ! 

I SHOULD STICK TO GARDENING!

In my post of 14th September I included photos of the the Atco with the ride-on attachment when purchased and these have now disappeared! I copied these from the ebay listing and pasted them into this blog but about 90 days after the auction end the listing with the photos is removed which in turn has removed them from my blog. Only now I learn that I should have copied them to 'my pictures' on my computer as a permanent record. Moreover the ebay seller also no longer has the photos which is understandable. I'm fairly good with horticulture but !*£$! useless with computers! Never mind we all learn from our mistakes.

See update 22nd November.

RIPPLES AND NIPPLES

This week I also fitted the restored clutch lever assembly. It’s a straight forward job but very fiddly and took several attempts to get it right. Two pairs of hands are a must. Even now I suspect that although operating correctly the clutch is not fully releasing but there is means of adjustment so another tweaking issue on completion.

I have previously said that the carb control cable was "working perfectly", well I was wrong. It's difficult to test a cable off the machine and now having fitted the cable I find that the inner wire is partially seized inside the cable sleeve - doubtless due to a combination of slight ripples and kinks along the length, frayed strands and age. I've sent an enquiry to the OLMclub for a replacement and also advice on fitting. There's a nipple on each end, at the lever end this is easily fitted but at the other end the wire goes through the screw on carburettor cap and then terminates with a nipple. So one of those nipples must be clamped/brazed on after assembly; or is there something I'm missing here ? Watch this space.

Update. Jonathan Cruse has kindly confirmed my above observation in that the nipple at the carb end has to be fitted after passing through the carb cap. He’s offered to make up a new cable but I’ll wait and have this done when I take the machine to him for a few mechanical issues which are beyond me.

STILL LEARNING ABOUT THREADS

I refitted the engine release valve stem and body – see photo. In the process of attaching the clip one of the screws sheared off leaving a few millimetres of thread inside the hexagonal stem body which can not be removed. These ‘screws’ are 3/16 BSF x 3/8 bolts (why are very small bolts called screws ?)  This size of screw could not be found online but in the process of searching I discovered that 3/16 BSF is interchangeable with 2BA thread. (32 tpi  and 31.4 tpi respectively.) So I searched my electrical bits box and found a 2BA screw which after cutting to length fitted perfectly. Just one problem. Having fitted the new screw into another threaded hole in the hexagonal valve stem body the clip and lever are no longer in the correct  position when fully screwed into the engine casing. Moreover the stem appears to be seized inside the body when it should act like a piston inside a cylinder when the decompressor lever is applied. For now I’ll leave as is and address this problem when the restoration is complete and ready for fine tuning to fire her up.  

(Part descriptions as referred to in the Atco spare parts list,courtesy of the OLMclub)

http://www.oldlawnmowerclub.co.uk/sites/default/files/opmanual/Atco%20Standard%20Parts.pdf

MAUVAIS QUART D'HEURE

This week I’ve been fitting the fuel tank and when completed I noticed that the forward tank straps did not quite sit correctly around the tank. After some deliberating I discovered that the tank support arms had been assembled the wrong way round.  The rear engine support brackets are near vertical and therefore the tank support arms are also vertical-these were fitted correctly, however the forward tank arms follow the inclined angle of the front engine support brackets but are then slightly angled upwards so as to be vertical at the top to take the tank straps. I had not noticed this during assembly with the result that the tank straps were not at right angles to the tank. It’s hardly noticeable but would be by those ‘in the know’ and anyway I can’t live with something I know is wrong so the whole !$%&*! engine/tank support assembly will have to be dismantled and refitted correctly. Only a days work. C’est la vie.

Update. Surprise, surprise. This dismantling and reassembly exercise only took half an hour and now the tank straps fit perfectly. Me thinks I’m eventually getting used to this machine!

ON THE HOME STRAIGHT

Update. Prior to taking the partly assembled machine to Jonathan Cruse to resolve this problem I decided that I would have one more attempt to fix it myself.

Firstly I made absolutely certain that every component had been assembled correctly and they had. I then set about systematically dismantling the engine & tank supports and cross bars noting very carefully the sequence in which they were removed and what went where.  I don’t know what went wrong during first assembly nor do I know what went right on reassembling but I’m delighted to report that the problem has been resolved.  The rear engine supports are now vertical and all the slack in the chain has been taken up.

ALMOST BUT NOT QUITE

I fitted the rear roller to the partially assembled frame and was anticipating all systems go for the final couple of days in putting all the remaining parts in place. Nothing could go wrong now. Oh yes it did !  

I am absolutely certain that all the engine mounting supports and other parts fitted to the frame so far have been installed correctly yet the engine appears to be sitting too low with the result that the engine to clutch chain has a good 2 inches of slack. Furthermore the rear engine mounting support brackets are leaning in towards the engine instead of being vertical. With all the nuts only loosely fitted the whole assembly can be pushed backwards on the main frame but requires forcing to get the engine supports at the correct angle and that can’t be right. Even then there is still too much slack in the chain.  I’ve tried every way possible of solving this problem all to no avail so I sent an email and video to Jonathan Cruse at The Mower Centre in Hailsham in the hope that he can advise me.  It’s one of those problems difficult to explain in words so see video* (Best visualised by thinking of a shape that should be square but is a parallelogram.) It’s more easily understood when seen so I may have to take the mower to him for inspection.  

SAFER JIG

This is the new jig I made for working on the rear roller, far more stable than simply using wedges - as I know to my cost !  I have a brief video of me cleaning off the surface rust after the roller had been blasted by the metal finishers and hopefully I'll post that video once I've learnt how to upload it !

LOST SIXPENCE AND FOUND A TANNER

Update. I’ve now collected the ride-on seat and rear roller from the metal finishers. On the one hand I was very pleased that all the old galvanising on the seat as well as the paint, rust and most of the light pitting on the roller had been removed but at the same time a tad disappointed that the blasting process did not leave the shiny bare steel finish I was expecting. It’s difficult to explain the finish they achieved; best described as a very fine ‘textured’ surface in dull silver. Anyway on balance I’m happy with what was done, certainly a better finish than I could have achieved.

 I’ve left the seat as finished by blasting and given it several coats of lacquer.  When I collected these items they had just finished the blasting, by the time I got home –about 45 minutes later on a sunny day- the roller was covered in a rust bloom.  I made a new jig for holding the roller whilst the rust was removed with a rotary wire brush. The instant I finished this exercise the roller was dusted off and given three coats of lacquer.  Before and after in photos.

MORE HASTE LESS SPEED

Little progress this week. Firstly in the space of two days we’ve had four machines break down all requiring my attention. What did I say about modern lawn mowers ! Thank goodness it’s the end of the season.

I’ve had to stop fitting any more sub assemblies to the main frame for good reason. Earlier this week I took the ride-on seat to a company that uses glass bead and vapour blasting to remove the galvanised plating to leave a shiny bare steel finish. Because of the eye injury I sustained whilst sanding the ride-on rollers I decided to have the mowers rear roller face also cleaned up by this company at the same time. When this roller is ready for assembly the machine will have to be lifted and located onto the roller bearing brackets so if I fit any more assemblies to the frame it will become too heavy and cumbersome to manoeuvre. I’m doing all this unaided!

Soon after buying the moss green paint a few months back I prep’d and painted the lid of the tool box so I could satisfy myself that the colour was OK. Now I have noticed several tiny pin head specs bubbling up on the surface where foolishly in my haste I had failed to remove all traces of rust.  Moreover I don’t recall using Kurust after the old paint had been rubbed down and inevitably this process exposed some of the bare metal underneath. Although miniscule now these imperfections will only get bigger so the lid has been removed and this time totally stripped back to bare metal, coated with Kurust and then painted with top coat.  I’m a bit ashamed not to have done this right in the first place.   

After installing the carb I thought the finish I had previously achieved was not good enough so it was removed, stripped of lacquer and rebuffed.  Although the ports were taped over I nevertheless swilled petrol inside when finished just in case debris had found its way in. I’ve now realised that the lacquered finish will be unsuitable.  The slightest leak of fuel when primed will dissolve the lacquer to give a blotchy appearance so it will be left with a buffed and polished finish.

I reinstalled the cutting cylinder satisfactorily; or so I thought. Fitting the bearings to the bearing brackets and then assembling onto the frame was very fiddly and at the end of which I had forgotten to feed the chain above and below the already installed conveyor casting (back throw plate) and also overlooked fitting the outside brass dust cover caps when assembling the bearings to the brackets.  (Both inside and outside caps fit into channels inside the bearing brackets and have to be installed when the bearings are assembled.)  It was late and I was tired. Well that’s my excuse anyway !

Update. After reinstalling the cutting cylinder and back plate I realised that assembly would be far easier with the rear roller and chain installed first and then these other assemblies afterwards so both were removed. The roller is away at the metal finishers so this job will have to await it’s return.